I personally have the Wagner 200 watt heat gun, you can find this model nearly anywhere. The fundamentals of creating something out of those crafting materials primarily consist of heating the piece and holding it in place until it cools down to retain the shape that you want. You (generally) don't want to point your heat gun right at one spot without moving it, always keep it waving back and forth on the piece of foam you will be bending. There are ways to make the foam hold it’s shape better. The White Crafts glue can simply be applied to the Foam in multiple Layers, if necessary, and it will Seal EVA Foam enough to be painted . My big concern though is with the actual heat gun itself, in all the videos, people are bringing it near their hands and touching the foam as they heat it. I've also found that you can rough cut foam (especially on EPP) and skip sanding it, just heat it with a heat gun and as the suface particles melt the foam suface smooths out nicely. You can use it to dry accessories for your jewelry, dresses and more. Use a couple pieces of double sided tape to hold the template on the foam while you trace the pattern pice with a Sharpie. Ever worked with Worbla or EVA foam for your cosplay? You don't want to heat it up too much. Here are the main panel lines cut into the boot top. Upper Right Photo: This is the shoulder paudron pieces after they've been cut out, heated to remove the texture, and the edges dremeled to give them a smooth rounded edge. A smooth dense surface means your flex paints and glues will adhere with ease. The elastic was able to stretch when I walked, and pulled the boot top back down when I wasn't walking. The boot & boot upper will not be glued together. I couldn't say it any better, so instead of trying, here's his video. So if it is put on eva foam the foam tends to act as a insulator and absorb the heat hindering the reaction and never letting it cure. Once the foam is heated up enough, you'll pull/stretch the foam down over the hitch ball. LIGHTLY cut the lines with your X-Acto knife. You can see that there's a fairly sharp bend in the front of the boot top. A hair dryer should work fine, it just may take a bit longer to get the pieces heated. ), a mason jar; or you can just shape it with your hands. To find out more about simulating the stitching visit THIS PAGE. Heating EVA foam gives off toxic fumes. Ask Question. It still need keepers to hide the seam between the kneepad & straps, but it's just about ready for Plastidip. *** Putting complex bends and curves in EVA Foam armor can be tricky, since the foam is very elastic and flexible. This will “close” the surface of the EVA Foam to prepare it for Sealing and Painting later on. Date published: 2020-10-23. Without adequate safety features, your heat gun experience could turn into a total disaster. Stop grinding before you get to the right edge of the piece. This will create a sharp edge later. ... Now I have a hard deadline coming up and no way to shape my eva foam. This means your projects will have a professional final appearance. (the boots were on back order). This is the Doc Marten boot with the EVA shell applied. It's a piece of junk. This heat gun will be a useful addition to your tool kit. This gives you a much smoother surface when you get to painting the armor. Use a couple pieces of double sided tape to hold the template on the foam while you trace the pattern pice with a Sharpie. The large pieces are cut & then applied to the boot using superglue. This is the damage caused by the bit running away from you at the end of an edge. Keep the heat gun about 2"-3" away from the foam, and keep the gun constantly moving. It might turn out alright at first, but then you wind up with a fiberglass shell falling off of the foam underneath. Again, like the slots in the kneepads, I did plunge cuts with the dremel AFTER I applied the fun foam to the pauldrons. I placed them on the MF boots because I hadn't completed Garron's boots yet. to cut the panel line. Keep heating until … Once the foam is warm enough, you can use your knee, a hitchball clamped in a vise, or even just your hands to strech, form, & bend the foam. To use a heat gun to seal EVA foam, simply let it heat for a few seconds, and then blow hot air onto your foam from a distance of about 20 centimeters. Otherwise it would have been trial & error to match the curve of the two kneepads. Just take your metal ruler & mark the line with a sharpie. So using this method, I took the traced foam pieces, heated them, and folded them against my ankles. ;^). The sharpie tick marks are to help me match up the pieces and to mark locations for seam lines, center line, etc. That keeps you from seeing the back texture on the finished piece of armor. I just didn't take a photo of that, so the glove free pic will have to do! Note: These pieces are made from two layers of foam that are glued together. In short, there are a lot of different ways to seal EVA Foam the two most well known and widely used methods are using either Plasti Dip or White Crafts glue (wood glue) to Seal EVA Foam. Make sure to move the foam around on the hitch ball or you'll get an uneven curve. As you can see, the kneepad is made from two halves, that are heat formed & then glued together. Your main tool here is the heat gun, they come in many different shapes and sizes but you really only need a small basic one. This sets the foam … The rotation of the drum is bad about grabbing the foam & spinning around the edge of the piece. You heat the foam up using the heat gun. Use an X-Acto knife to cut the piece out of the foam. It'll grind off material too quickly, and leaves a striped texture from the grit on the drum. You'll need to change blades fairly often...the foam dulls the blades very quickly. You'll start the process by cutting out your paper template. This easy-to-use gun comes with a 70" cable. Thanks in advance. It's just another thing to clean up. You do this by heating the face of the foam with the heatgun. These are the boot tops on my Marcus Fenix boots. Having helped a friend with shaping the armor and doing foam work myself, I have found the best thing to do after getting it heated up and shaped is to throw it in the freezer. Then use the side of a Dremel 85422 Silicon Carbide Grinding Stone You'll start the process by cutting out your paper template. Keep the heat gun about 2"-3" away from the foam, and keep the gun constantly moving. When you're removing the texture (or when heating the foam for shaping), make sure to keep the tip of the heatgun about 2" from the foam. Run the X-acto knife along the interior of the armor part to make a slice. Dec 22, 2010 at 4:35 pm #1676888. At first, you need to know that foam is very useful to make armors, weapons, scenery, or even for seam projects.Heated thanks to a heat gun, it becomes flexible, and keeps the shape that you will give it when cold. Dremel 85422 Silicon Carbide Grinding Stone, On to Plastidipping and Painting the Armor->. If you release pressure from the trigger the heat gun will turn off immediately. Thanks for reading! One of the best things about EVA foam is how easily it is to mold with a heat gun. The next step for them will be to flatten the texture by heating the surface with a heat gun. Using your heat gun go from one end of the foam to the other. I created human sized DVD costumes a few years ago out of EVA foam. Hold it in the desired shape until it cools down. Trace the base pattern onto your foam with either a marker or a sharp object, like an awl or a seam ripper that makes a small groove in the foam. Cutting and Shaping the EVA Foam. 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