The regular thickness section is designed to be just outside of the 7mm stitch width, allowing for uniform and precisely-spaced top-stitching. Put the needle and the presser foot in the up position and remove the project from under the presser foot. 5. With a straight stitch, sew the binding tail closed. Fold the corner diagonally and end the stitching … It works best with pre-folded double-fold bias binding, but it is possible to use it without the binding being pre-folded (just take it slower, feeding the binding through. The binding foot is adjustable so that it can deal with varying widths of binding. This Bias Binding Foot makes it fast and easy to sew binding on edges in one step, especially on curves. Mitered corners are a great way to create professional looking results when sewing corners. And, like always, there’s many ways to accomplish the same goals in sewing, so if you have an alternate technique you use to do this feel free to leave a link or comment telling us how you do … 3. Slide the quilt out from under the foot slightly so you can fold the binding strip. I’ve been working on a project that has involved a LOT of bias tape. • Select a straight stitch. Do the same when you end the hemming of a square piece of fabric and reach starting point. How to Turn Corners with Binding. The first tutorial for bias binding, including basic edges and outside corners. Make this stitch line close to the edge of the binding… Put your foot back down and continue sewing down the second edge. This is known as stitching “in the ditch.” Sew along the seam to finish your binding. Pin binding closed at the end, with the raw edge tucked inside. Match raw edges of the binding to the raw edge of your project and secure with a straight stitch (for this binding I am sewing with a 1/4″ seam allowance). This video shows the clever (and easy) binding trick quilt designer Patrick Lose uses to achieve those perfect corners every time. The binding ends can be joined using either the "tucked" or "seamed" method. It can also be a little finicky about the type of threads being used in the needles. Step Three: As you reach the next corner, repeat all the steps above. So I start attaching my binding, and I want to stop an equal distance to my seam allowance before I get to the corner. Many times mitered corners are associated with quilts or other projects that are being finished with some kind of a binding. Use your sewing machine to do this. When you get to the end of the bias tape, follow the same tutorial I mentioned in the beginning of these instructions to attach the bias ends. I have an easy method for binding an inside (inverted) corner to share with you today. Pin the binding to the front of the quilt along one side, making sure to maintain a consistent binding width. Binding and presser foot alignment when quilt is trimmed 1/8″ outside the quilt top. How do I join the ends of the binding? I have an assortment of specialty sewing machine feet, most of them given to me by my mom (thanks, ma!). Lift the presser foot but don’t cut the thread. Set the machine for a 5mm-wide zigzag stitch, and make sure the machine is set for heavyweight fabric (or adjusting the presser foot pressure to accommodate the thick layers). I used the Interchangeable Dual Feed Foot but this time, I used the Changeable Zigzag Foot… If they are just adjust a couple of inches here and there until it’s right. To secure the bias binding, sew a straight stitch about 3 millimetres (0.12 in) from the edge of the bias binding. Tape up, on all sides and give it a light press along the seam is! 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